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Window run channel replacement
This repair was performed on a 1983 300SD
It was the right rear window.
Yes I know its allot of pictures...But isn't it worth a million words?
I have to admit its more informative then the MB's shop manuals on DVD!
Hey Jeff.Thanks for the great service you give me and my friends at your store!
This is the OEM part # 126 735 00 25 and its called a window run.
This is the old one.The outer strip of felt became very dry over time and eventualy broke off,causing water to enter behind the window.
Ok lets begin.
Remove the two screws holding the chrome plate around the door latch.
Remove the two screws holding the arm rest retainer and the arm rest itself at the rear.
Remove the plastic retainer around the inside door handle.
Remove the brass screw holding the door handle bezel.
Then the electric window switch.
Gently remove the door handle bezel.
Remove screw holding the upper part of the arm rest.
Center arm rest retainer.
Remove harness for the courtesy light and ground wire
And last the rear arm rest screw.
Courtesy light harness on the left and cigar lighter on the right on the lower door trim panel.
Gently remove the plastic on the door skin,you will need to put it back in place latter on.
Now remove the inner window felt strip by gently lifting it up.
You need to remove the horizontal chrome molding on the outside of the door.Gently lift one end and then the molding will come loose and separate from the door.
Remove the outer window felt strip after you have removed the chrome molding.
Now its time to remove the old window run.Put a flat head screw driver behind the window run and pry it out.You have to pull quite hard on both sides because the seal runs down each side of the window into the door.
This molding is only clip on the edge of the outer door skin.
You have to now slide the window run down a channel on either side of the window opening.Start on any side,the window run is molded to fit exactly in the channel.There is already a 90 degree curb on each side of the run.
In goes the new one.Get yourself some silicone lubricant and be generous enough when applying it on the back side of your new window run.Now the fun part begins.
Push the window run downwards and don't forget to apply a generous amount of silicone lubricant.
Now we have reached the 90 degree angle that will fit in the corner of the window opening.
Here I'm using an aluminum wedge to help me push the run in its place.
Like I said be generous on the silicone lube.
Be assertive when pushing downwards...And also be patient.
On side is done....Now the other.
More silicone needed.
Adding silicone on the inner tracks from the opening at bottom of door.
Reinstall the window felt strip,and pay attention to the clips on this molding.They have to go back the same way they came off.
This is the groove under the chrome molding that has to clip onto the felt strip.Take your time putting this back in...!
Now the inside felt molding.
Done.
This particular molding fits over the lip on top of the inside door.
Chrome molding back in place.
I used an electric glue gun to put the plastic insulator back in place.
Just add a little at a time....Other wise it drys too fast.
A few more spots to go.
Don't spread it out too much otherwise it will dry very fast.
Now the door trim panel.Reconnect your harness for the light and cigar lighter.
Done.
Cigar lighter harness.
Harness reconnected.
With door trim back in place,add screw to rear of arm rest.
Center arm rest retainer screw.
Don't put it all the way in you still have a screw to add right behind it.
Pull on the door opening lever and slide in the back bezel.
Now add in your door pull handle screw.
Now add the brass screw for the door handle bezel.
Now we reconnect the electric window switch to its harness.
Slide in the plastic retainer.
Gently...
Click....
Add chrome plate and screws to the door latch.
Now its all done.
Total time you ask? Well lets say it took more time adding this to my web site then it took to do the job.
But really it took about one hour to replace.
